In the hills of southern Lazio, one hour from Rome, lies a small medieval city with a grand history: Anagni.
Known as “The City of the Popes,” Anagni was once the heart of the Catholic world. Its cobbled streets, ancient buildings, and underground secrets tell stories of faith, politics, betrayal—and power.
Few travelers know it. Fewer visit. But those who do step into a time machine.
Why Is It Called “The City of the Popes”?
Between the 12th and 13th centuries, Anagni gave birth to four Popes:
- Pope Innocent III
- Pope Gregory IX
- Pope Alexander IV
- Pope Boniface VIII
These men shaped the Church’s global power—and they often ruled not from Rome, but from Anagni.
During that era, the city was a true papal residence, a fortress of religion and diplomacy. Kings came to negotiate. Armies came to threaten. And history was written behind its thick stone walls.
The Most Famous Event: The Slap of Anagni
In 1303, one of the most dramatic events in Church history happened here.
Pope Boniface VIII had declared that kings should obey the Pope.
King Philip IV of France disagreed.
The King sent troops to capture the Pope in his own palace in Anagni.
The leader of the attack, Guillaume de Nogaret, entered the Papal Palace, slapped the Pope across the face, and arrested him.
This moment became known as the “Schiaffo di Anagni” — The Slap of Anagni.
It marked the beginning of a major shift in Church power, and the decline of the Papacy’s direct political control.
What to See in Anagni Today
Anagni is a city of stone, silence, and surprises. Here are the top places to visit:
1. Anagni Cathedral and the Crypt
Built in the 11th century, the Cathedral is beautiful. But the real treasure lies below.
The Crypt of San Magno is called the Sistine Chapel of the Middle Ages.
Its frescoes—still vivid after 900 years—show angels, saints, animals, plants, and scenes from the Book of Revelation.
It’s one of the most complete and best-preserved medieval painting cycles in Europe.
2. The Papal Palace
The Palazzo di Bonifacio VIII was the Pope’s stronghold.
Its rooms are plain but powerful—thick walls, high ceilings, narrow windows. You can still feel the tension of 1303.
Inside, you’ll find relics, art, and a view over the Sacco Valley.
3. Historic Center
Anagni’s old town is full of charm. Walk through:
- Piazza Innocenzo III, the heart of the city.
- Porta Cerere, the ancient gate that leads into the city walls.
- Small alleys with medieval towers and noble palaces.
Everything is built in local stone. The city hasn’t changed much in centuries.
Local Traditions and Festivals
Every September, Anagni celebrates its Medieval Festival with costumes, parades, and reenactments of the Slap of Anagni.
It’s a time when the whole city steps back into the 13th century.
The town also honors its saints with processions, music, and traditional food, especially ciambelle al vino (wine biscuits) and porchetta.
How to Get There
- 🚗 By Car: 1 hour from Rome (A1 highway, exit Anagni-Fiuggi)
- 🚆 By Train: From Rome Termini to Anagni Station, then a short bus or taxi to the historic center
- 🏨 Where to Stay: Small B&Bs and historic guesthouses offer authentic charm and quiet nights
Why Visit Anagni?
- It’s off the tourist track, but rich in history.
- It offers one of Italy’s finest medieval crypts.
- You walk the same streets as popes, kings, and knights.
- The city keeps a sacred and mysterious atmosphere, especially at dusk.
Anagni is not flashy. It’s deep.
It’s a place for those who love stories, symbols, and silence.
Final Thought
If Rome is the stage of power, Anagni is the backstage.
Here, popes made decisions that shaped empires.
Here, a single slap changed history.
And today, the city remains—as it always was—strong, proud, and still watching.
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