Basilicata is the mountainous region tucked into the instep of Italy’s boot, between Puglia and Calabria.
Famous for Matera’s cave dwellings, it also hides cliff-hugging villages, an abandoned ghost town, a short but dramatic Tyrrhenian coastline at Maratea, and hearty cuisine built on peppers, bread and Aglianico wine.
The first time I drove inland from Matera, the road emptied within minutes. That is the essential truth of Basilicata: even now, with Matera firmly on the international circuit, the rest of the region remains startlingly quiet. Fields of wheat ripple towards eroded clay hills, and villages appear stacked on ridgelines like something a child built from stone blocks. If you want the Italy of thirty years ago — unhurried, unpolished, genuinely welcoming — this is where it survives.
Where should you go in Basilicata beyond Matera?
Matera deserves its fame, but treat it as a gateway rather than the whole story. An hour or so inland, the Lucanian Dolomites rise in jagged sandstone spires, and two villages cling to them: Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa. Both are officially listed among Italy’s most beautiful villages, and both feel carved rather than built — houses wedged into rock, staircases cut straight into the mountainside. A zip line known as the Volo dell’Angelo connects the two across the valley, one of the more exhilarating ways to travel between villages anywhere in Europe.
Further south lies Craco, the ghost town. Abandoned in the twentieth century after landslides made it unsafe, it stands intact and empty on its hilltop, and can be visited on guided tours with safety helmets. Film crews love it; so do photographers at golden hour.
Does Basilicata have a coastline worth visiting?
Two, in fact, and they could not be more different. On the Ionian side, near Metaponto, long sandy beaches back onto pine woods and the ruins of Greek colonies — the Tavole Palatine temple columns are a genuinely atmospheric stop. On the Tyrrhenian side, Basilicata gets roughly 30 kilometres of coast, and spends them lavishly on Maratea: a pastel old town in the hills, tiny coves of dark sand and clear water below, and a giant statue of Christ the Redeemer crowning the mountain above the harbour.
What should you eat and drink in Basilicata?
Lucanian cooking is frugal, fiery and deeply satisfying. Look for:
- Peperoni cruschi — sun-dried sweet peppers from the Senise area, flash-fried until they shatter like crisps; locals scatter them over pasta and salt cod.
- Pane di Matera — a horn-shaped durum-wheat bread with a deep amber crust, protected by an IGP designation.
- Lucanica sausage — a pork sausage so old that Roman writers are said to have mentioned it.
- Aglianico del Vulture — a structured, age-worthy red grown on the slopes of an extinct volcano in the region’s north; the wineries around Barile and Rionero welcome visitors, usually by appointment.
When is the best time to visit Basilicata?
May, June, September and early October are ideal: warm enough for the coast, comfortable for hiking in the Pollino mountains, and free of the August crowds that fill Maratea with Italian holidaymakers. Winter has its own stark beauty inland — Matera under low mist is unforgettable — but many rural restaurants and attractions reduce their hours, so check ahead.
How do you get around Basilicata?
Honestly: hire a car. Rail links exist — Matera is connected to Bari by a local line — but the villages that make this region special are scattered across serious mountain terrain, and buses are infrequent. Roads are winding but generally quiet and well surfaced. Allow more time than the map suggests, and treat the slow drives as part of the experience; some of my favourite Basilicata memories are unplanned stops at roadside bars where an espresso came with twenty minutes of conversation.
Basilicata will not stay this quiet forever. Go while a wrong turn still leads somewhere wonderful.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Basilicata worth visiting if I’ve already seen Matera?
Absolutely. Matera is the region’s headline act, but Castelmezzano, Pietrapertosa, the ghost town of Craco and the coast at Maratea are equally memorable and far less visited. Many travellers find the quiet inland villages the most rewarding part of a Basilicata trip precisely because so few tourists reach them.
How many days do you need in Basilicata?
Plan a minimum of four to five days: two for Matera and its cave churches, one for the Lucanian Dolomites villages, one for Craco and the inland hills, and at least one for Maratea’s coast. A full week lets you add the Vulture wine area and the Pollino mountains without rushing.
Is Basilicata expensive compared with other parts of Italy?
Generally no. Outside Matera’s boutique cave hotels, accommodation, restaurants and local wine are noticeably cheaper than in Tuscany, the Amalfi Coast or the major cities. Agriturismi and family-run B&Bs in the villages offer particularly good value, and a generous multi-course dinner often costs less than a main course in Rome.
Do people speak English in Basilicata?
In Matera and Maratea, yes — hotels, guides and many restaurants manage well. In smaller inland villages, English is limited, so a few Italian phrases and a translation app go a long way. Locals are typically patient and pleased that you’ve made the effort to visit at all.