Travelling Italy in August means working around two realities: intense heat and Ferragosto, the national holiday on 15 August when Italians themselves go on holiday; plan mornings and evenings outdoors, expect city closures mid-month, head inland or uphill rather than to the coast, and book restaurants and trains well ahead.
Ask any Italian friend about August and you will hear the same word: Ferragosto. It is less a single day than a mood that settles over the country from roughly the first week of the month. Shutters come down in the cities, out-of-office replies multiply, and entire families migrate towards the sea or the mountains. For a visitor, this can feel bewildering — or, if you understand the rhythm, it can become the most atmospheric time of year to see a quieter, stranger Italy.
What is Ferragosto and why does Italy stop for it?
Ferragosto falls on 15 August and its name is generally traced back to the Feriae Augusti, a period of rest linked to the Emperor Augustus in the early Roman Empire. Over the centuries the date merged with the Catholic feast of the Assumption of Mary, which is why so many villages hold processions, fireworks and patron-saint festivities in mid-August. The modern habit of mass August travel is often said to have been encouraged by discounted holiday trains in the interwar years. Whatever the precise lineage, the result today is unmistakable: 15 August is when Italy collectively exhales.
What actually closes in August?
Less than travellers fear in tourist centres, more than they expect elsewhere. Major museums and landmark sites in cities like Rome, Florence and Venice generally stay open, though it is wise to check individual opening days around 15 August. The closures that catch visitors out are the everyday ones: the neighbourhood trattoria, the family-run pharmacy, the small grocer. A handwritten sign reading ‘chiuso per ferie’ — closed for holidays — is one of the defining sights of the Italian August. In smaller towns away from the coast, whole streets can go quiet for a fortnight, while seaside and lake resorts do the opposite and reach peak capacity, peak prices and peak traffic.
How do you handle the August heat like a local?
Southern and inland Italy regularly sees temperatures well above 30°C in August, and heatwaves can push considerably higher. The local response is not to fight the heat but to restructure the day around it:
- Do your sightseeing early — aim to be out by 8am and finished with anything strenuous by midday.
- Retreat somewhere cool from roughly 1pm to 5pm: a long lunch, a museum, a church, a siesta.
- Re-emerge for the passeggiata, the evening stroll, when piazzas fill and towns come back to life.
- Look for altitude: hill towns in Umbria, Abruzzo, the Apennines and the Alps can be noticeably cooler than the plains and coasts.
- Use the water fountains — many Italian towns have public drinking fountains with cold, potable water.
Where should you go in Italy in August?
The counter-intuitive answer: the places Italians are leaving. Cities empty out in mid-August, which means Rome, Milan, Turin and Bologna can feel unusually calm — hot, yes, but with shorter queues and easier restaurant tables at the places that stay open. Even better, in our view, are the inland villages of regions like Abruzzo, Molise, Basilicata and the Marche hinterland, where August is festival season. This is when tiny communities hold their sagre — food festivals dedicated to a single local product — and their patron-saint celebrations, with brass bands, communal tables and fireworks over medieval rooftops. Avoid, unless you have booked far in advance and made peace with crowds: the Amalfi Coast, the Cinque Terre, Sardinia’s famous beaches and the major lakes in the week around 15 August.
What should you book ahead for Ferragosto?
Trains on the days either side of 15 August, any accommodation near the sea or lakes, car hire, and dinner reservations for the night of Ferragosto itself, when restaurants that are open tend to run set festive menus. Carry some cash for village festivals, and always double-check opening hours rather than trusting what a website said in spring.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it a bad idea to visit Italy in August?
Not at all, but it requires strategy. Cities are hot yet unusually quiet, coasts are crowded and expensive, and many small businesses close mid-month. If you embrace early mornings, long lunches, evening strolls and inland villages with summer festivals, August can be a genuinely rewarding and atmospheric time to travel.
Are shops and restaurants closed on Ferragosto?
Many are, especially family-run businesses in cities and inland towns, and some close for one to two weeks around 15 August. Restaurants in tourist areas and resorts generally stay open but are busy, often with special set menus. Supermarkets in larger towns usually open with reduced hours; always check locally.
Do trains and public transport run on 15 August?
Yes, Ferragosto is a public holiday rather than a shutdown, so trains run, though often on a reduced Sunday-style timetable for regional services. Long-distance high-speed trains operate largely as normal but fill up quickly around the holiday, so book seats well in advance for travel dates near 15 August.
Where is it coolest in Italy in August?
Generally the mountains: the Alps and Dolomites in the north, and the Apennine ranges running down the peninsula, including hill towns in Abruzzo, Umbria and the Marche. Higher-altitude villages can be markedly cooler than coasts and cities, and many have lively summer festival calendars precisely because Italians holiday there.