A Tuscan fairytale with a dark ending
In the quiet hills of Casentino, eastern Tuscany, stands a medieval fortress that seems frozen in time: Castello dei Conti Guidi, better known as Poppi Castle.
Its towers rise above a stone village. Its halls echo with centuries of war, love, betrayal—and one story that refuses to die.
The story of Matelda, the beautiful noblewoman whose spirit is said to haunt the castle to this day.
A Castle from Another Time
Poppi Castle dates back to the 12th century. Built by the powerful Guidi family, it once guarded trade routes and held political control over the valley.
Some say its design inspired Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. Its square tower, inner courtyard, chapel, and grand staircase are pure medieval power.
Dante Alighieri is believed to have stayed here during his exile. Inside the castle’s library, rare manuscripts still survive.
But beneath the history and the art lies a darker tale.
Who Was Matelda?
Matelda (or Matilda in some versions) was a noblewoman born into the Guidi family.
She was known for her striking beauty and charm. But behind her graceful appearance, there was cruelty.
When her husband left for battle, Matelda ruled the castle. She invited young men from the nearby villages into her chambers—then had them killed the next morning, throwing their bodies from the tower to silence them.
She did this for pleasure. For power. For revenge, some say.
The killings continued until one night, one of the victims escaped and revealed the truth to the people.
The villagers stormed the castle.
As punishment, Matelda was walled alive inside a room of the tower, left to die in silence and darkness.
The Ghost in White
They say Matelda never left.
Visitors and locals report:
- A woman in white walking the halls at night
- Whispered cries from behind the stone walls
- Sudden cold in empty rooms
- Footsteps on the stairs with no one there
Some claim to see her face in the tower’s windows during full moons.
Others say she appears each year on the anniversary of her death, searching for a way out.
What to See Today
Poppi Castle is open to visitors and offers a rich experience:
📍 The Tower
Climb for a stunning view over Casentino—but also the site of Matelda’s final breath.
📚 The Rilliana Library
One of Tuscany’s hidden gems, with over 25,000 volumes including incunabula and manuscripts.
🎨 Chapel of the Castle
Frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, a pupil of Giotto, decorate this sacred space.
🏛️ Historical Museum
Discover the battles, alliances, and family feuds of medieval Tuscany.
Getting There
- 🚗 From Florence: 1.5 hours by car
- 🚆 Nearest station: Poppi (small regional line)
- 🏨 Stay in the old town for a full medieval experience
Why Visit?
- It’s a lesser-known gem of Tuscany, with real history and few crowds
- The castle is remarkably preserved and atmospheric
- The ghost story adds intrigue and emotion to the experience
- Poppi itself is listed among Italy’s “Borghi più belli” (Most Beautiful Villages)
Final Thought
Poppi Castle offers more than just stone walls and Tuscan views. It’s a living story—a place where history and legend blur.
Matelda may have died centuries ago, but her presence still lingers in the air.
Visit if you dare.
Listen to the silence.
And if you feel a chill, don’t say we didn’t warn you.
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